Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
